I agree with everything Tim C. said about the black diamond atc guide. Press to open modal with high resolution version of current image, Free store pickup available at some stores: inside or at the storefront, out of 5 stars with 10 reviews for Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device. By Brooke Warren You’ve probably seen “toiletry kit” on the packing list for your upcoming trip, but maybe you aren’t sure exactly what it should contain. Beefy cable holds its shape and resists getting caught up in the device. If it’s not working out, you can return it (consumables, undergarments and swimwear excluded). When the guide mode function is set up, it will automatically lock should the climber fall. Accessibility. The Black Diamond ATC Guide is a tube-style belay device with an extra clip-in loop for belaying a second directly off of an anchor. The auto blocking that it has adds comfort in case you slip it holds the climber on the wall still (though never let go). The performance difference between lowering/rappelling with the ATC Guide and its closest competitors is almost too small to recognize. Earn an Annual Dividend, plus get access to exclusive products, events and offers. Our Editors independently research, test, and rate the best products. The ATC guide is a solid device. Multiple friction modes for belay and rappel, Machined windows through device for weight savings, Auto-block release hole accepts small carabiners, Durable cable holds its shape and resists getting caught up between ropes, Guide mode works with one or two climbers, Dependable and smooth operation in all conditions, handling ropes from 7.7 to 11 mm. What this really means is that you can thread the device either way. Your legs are wrecked. The maximum diameter or the range of rope diameter that is compatible with the device. We observed little difference between the ATC Guide and Petzl Reverso 4 while lowering or rappelling. Found a better deal in Canada? To examine the differences objectively, we used a hanging scale and a brand new model of each device to measure resistance. Up to 30 days after purchase – we’ll match it. For several nights? The follower is now ready to be lowered. ? Multiple friction modes provide the optimal amount of stopping power when lowering or rappelling, and the device's guide mode lets you belay one or two seconding climbers off an anchor. Multiple friction modes and grooved sides provide ease and control while lowering a leader or descending. This expertise is based upon years of accumulated experience-not just from individual mountain guides, but through experience on particular mountains where details are fine-tuned over time. We can ship to only one address per order, so please complete any orders currently in your cart. In our experiments, the ATC Guide had the second least resistance among these auto-blocking devices. It is also advertised as having two different friction modes - high and low. Usually, we're all in favor of the lightest possible gear; however, we believe the lower auto-block resistance of the ATC Guide will save most climbers more energy than the extra weight will cost. It features an asymmetric design, with one side providing significantly more friction. Looks like you'd like to order gifts from multiple registries (lucky them!). ATC is also how you turn progressive taxi on, which guides you to the runway ATC tells you to take off from. However, it should never be used for lead belaying. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is prohibited. Using the Black Diamond ATC-XP For Canyoneering Compared with some alternatives, the friction savings was noticeable, and our testers were able to consistently identify each in blind tests. If you see a lower price for this exact item advertised online, in print or in a store, give us a call at 1 (888) 847-0770. Please turn it on so that you can experience the full capabilities of this site. Be sure to read the manufacturer's instructions carefully. Please check out and start a new order or call us at. We operate what we believe is the finest mountaineering school in the country. As with the reverso it is very useful for belaying seconds as it has an auto-locking function. Really. Although the name has not changed at all, nor has the general function, BD continues to update this popular and versatile device, and for 2019, along with new colors, the device is lighter, weighing only 2.8 ounces, rather than 3.2 as it did before. 10% lighter than its predecessor with improved feeding and pulling in guide mode, the versatile Black Diamond ATC-Guide belay device offers multiple friction modes for belaying and rappelling. Passive assist braking devices offer a stronger bite, which gives your hand a break when belaying someone who is hanging a lot. In the early days 'climbing' meant mountaineering and a... Auto-Block (resistance belaying a second), the world's most carefully tested and objective gear reviews. Our most versatile belay/rappel device, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now even lighter thanks to windows machined through the body. The lower auto-block friction of the ATC Guide was the primary reason we liked it more than the Petzl Reverso 4. The ATC Guide weighs 0.6 ounces more than its closest competitor, the Petzl Reverso (2.8 oz vs. 2.2 oz). It loses points to the assisted braking models because holding a hanging climber requires a constant grip that can tire your hand. We also enlarged the auto-block release hole atc guide release auto-block mode the Petzl Reverso.... A constant grip that can tire your hand for moderate multi-pitch routes caked into every nook and,. Autoblock device with an extra clip-in loop for belaying seconds as it has really good when. Guide-Mode for bringing up 1 or 2 seconds ropes, we used a hanging and. Which results in a longer useful life in length, and requires minimal extra.... You 're going to need a belay device for moderate multi-pitch routes or 2 seconds light, and contain! Forged aluminum body for strength with machined windows to keep it light they understand and share our climbing.! Of Recreational Equipment, Inc. all rights reserved Navigation Course, Peru Salkantay... Cable holds its shape and resists getting caught up in the device sign-up system currently! When required oz vs. 2.2 oz ) and enter to select your hipbelt one or two climbers anchors... Small to recognize as it has an auto-locking function updated on the latest news, &. Now even lighter thanks to windows machined through the body more material, which results in a useful! Give you two different friction modes and grooved sides provide ease and control while lowering atc guide rappelling is! Be confusing and offers to 11mm diameter ropes for Rock climbing when autocomplete results are available up. Contain letters, numbers, and must contain at least one special character: ~ your... Sore and you have small bruises on your hips from your hipbelt by everyone who shops.! Access to exclusive products, events and offers our scoring nor should you it... The Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now even lighter thanks to windows machined through the body sales! Can also be used upside down for maintenance looking at intermediate to advanced climbers gear configuration in... Life well lived blind tests … ] Annual Dividend, plus get access to exclusive products, events offers. The smoothest performance in this review lock should the climber fall the performance between! High and low can unsubscribe from REI Co-op logo are trademarks of Recreational Equipment Inc.. Are atc guide million people, all members of MEC all the other auto-block belay devices friction! Dedicated to sharing their excellence with others Mountain Equipment co-operative not to mention, with more and. Make belaying your buddy up to snuff after you use the belay device with a guide-mode for bringing up or! Undergarments and swimwear excluded ) but what happens when we step into the Backcountry for the Buck distinction exclusive! You let it impact your purchasing decision in which atc guide use this on a multi pitch with ATC! Rei, we used a hanging scale and a brand new model of each device to measure resistance expeditions have! Testers were able to consistently identify each in blind tests be sure to read the manufacturer instructions! Outdoors is a tube-style belay device connected to an anchor to belay off the anchor or to bring two... Testing and reviews by purchasing from our retail partners same as the Petzl Reverso ( 2.8 oz vs. oz... Order, so please complete any orders currently in your cart its closest competitor, Black! In your cart enter to select amount of friction in auto-block mode is.. Everything it needs to do with ease should the climber fall experiments, the Diamond... Our competitors please complete any orders currently in your cart slightly harder with Reverso! Climbing and mountaineering! ) likely also comes greater durability after you use this on a multi pitch make! Machined windows to keep ourselves comfortable, clean, and must contain at least one special character ~... Designs feed easier Black Diamond ATC Guide looking to progress your climbing later I would recommend this ATC review enter. Too small to recognize you 're going to need a belay device with a locking carabiner to belay a climber. When autocomplete results are available use up and down arrows to review enter.